Meet Your Maker: Giles Cooke MW, Thistledown
Founded by British Masters of Wine Giles Cooke and Fergal Tynan, Thistledown Wines was established to champion South Australia’s old vine Grenache. Sourcing from many of the region's best vineyards, winemaker Giles Cooke MW crafts small-batch wines that celebrate the unique terroir of our region.
In McLaren Vale Giles saw an opportunity to participate in a movement that would change how people perceived old vine Grenache, as for Giles, McLaren Vale is the place that most consistently illustrates why old vine Grenache is world class.
Thistledown's commitment to sustainable viticulture and minimal intervention winemaking allows the true essence of McLaren Vale's diverse soils and coastal climate to shine through in every bottle.
We spoke with Thistledown's founder and winemaker, Giles Cooke MW to find out more:
How did you get started in the wine business?
I went to see a careers advisor during my third year of doing a history degree and they advised me that 40% of historians became accountants. That wasn’t something I had considered so I thought I’d do pursue what I was skilled at – eating and drinking a lot! I started out working for Majestic Wine in London and 3 years later began working for Alliance Wine. During my time at Alliance I did pretty much every job in sales, marketing and buying before setting up Alliance Wine Australia in 2006, and Thistledown in 2010.
What are the most rewarding aspects of your work?
I love seeing the entire life cycle of a wine, all the way through from the vineyard to the end consumer and I’m privileged to be able to participate in pretty much every stage, at various times of the year. I’ve also loved playing a small role in the resurgence of Grenache, and in helping to provide a sustainable future for many dedicated growers that otherwise may have pulled their vineyards out. As part of a wider movement, we have changed the perceptions of old vine Grenache, brought it to a wider, global audience and created a wine style that is much more relevant to today’s consumer. It’s all about being proud of what we have made, how we have treated people, have we made a positive difference And I hope that we have.
Why do you choose to make wine in McLaren Vale Wine Region?
As an outsider, I felt welcome in McLaren Vale and I saw an opportunity to participate in a movement that would change how people perceived old vine Grenache. While this is not exclusively a McLaren Vale thing, it is the place that most consistently illustrates why old vine Grenache is world class. I love the coastal location, that you can swim one minute and be amongst grapes just minutes later. There is a community in the Vale and while I’m not based here permanently, I hope I’ve done my bit to bring the best of the region to a wider audience.
Name a McLaren Vale vintner who has influenced or inspired you, and explain why?
Being a Grenache obsessive, those that have most influenced me are those that share similar obsessions. People like Steve Pannell, Pete Fraser and Toby Bekkers have been flag bearers for the region and its been great to hear their views on what the future holds. I long coveted the Clarendon site that Toby and Emmanuel are now bringing back to life and its great to see what progress they have made in a short time. And of course, the newer players at Aphelion, Paralian, Ministry of Clouds, Varney etc have all played their part in adding to my bank of intelligence.
But in terms of overall influence, it hasn’t really been a vintner that has influenced me most but the growers that we work with – it is their dedication, persistence and vision that have preserved the vineyards that we are now blessed to have access to.
What do you most enjoy about McLaren Vale Grenache?
I enjoy the ability of Grenache to convey where it was grown in a vivid and consumer friendly style. Old vines, grown in the right place, picked at the right time and made in a transparent style that faithfully translates site to bottle is something that very few regions have, and something that the Vale must work hard to protect. What I also love is a challenge, and Grenache is a real challenge – both in terms of growing and making world class wine but also in terms of creating the engagement and pull through that will make McLaren Vale Grenache more than a flash-in-pan.
What is your go-to wine of choice and why?
When not researching and drinking Vale Grenache, I have a pretty broad range of wines that I enjoy. I’ve spent a lot of time in Spain, and its wine and food, has played a hugely important part in my professional life. I also love to work with, and cook, great Spanish ingredients and have a particular soft spot for the wines of Rioja and im gladdened to see that the region is finally taking Garnacha seriously again. I love great Mosel Riesling, Beaujolais, White Burgundy, rich waxy white rhone based wines, the list goes on and on. The key to making great wine is to drink widely, know the great wines of the world but not try to ape them. Be influenced by yes, but create wines that are true to where they come from.
Read more at: thistledownwines.com